Rum: Finally, the real thing
At last we may have found the one true rum, said Jason Wilson in The New York Times. A decade after craft-spirit enthusiasts discovered rhum agricole, a rival has emerged, and it “ticks all the romantic boxes.” Clairin is made only in Haiti, often in homemade stills and from wild sugars crushed by the power of oxen. But give agricole a try as well. They’re both distilled from pure cane-sugar juice rather than from the molasses used in common rum, and that difference introduces complex, earthy flavors.
Neisson Rhum Agricole Blanc ($35). “Perfect in cocktails,” this unaged rum from Martinique offers notes of brown butter, dill, and sage.
Rhum J.M. V.O. ($40). Three years of aging works wonders: “Swirling flavors of smoked herb, smoked honey, and barbecue” lead to a spicy, licorice finish.
Clairin Casimir ($40). Past the funky aroma (seaweed and burned rubber), this clairin brims with “attractive umami notes.” ■
September 14, 2018 THE WEEK